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Jason Atherton never ceases to tempt and tease with his playful and inventive dishes at his flagship restaurant. The traditional à la carte is good, but it’s the ‘tasting’ dishes that really allows his skill and creativity to shine. Asian, Spanish and French influences are apparent in his British produce-led creations, done to an impeccably high standard via cutting-edge techniques. The dish we all salivated over on last summer’s Great British Menu, the deconstructed BLT with croque monsieur, delivers on every level. Other cheeky dishes include ‘beef tongue ’n’ cheek’. Maze Grill, next door, is a simple steak house in comparison.

When to go :
On a very special occasion, as you’ll have to book far in advance. A flurry of miniature ‘tasting’ dishes is the way to go.

Address :
10-13 Grosvenor Sq, W1K 6JP (7107 0000). Bond St.
Website :

While the upstairs Providores (the formal dining room) is an indulgent treat, we favour the buzzing ground floor Tapa Room for its innovative breakfasts and all-day menu of small dishes and tapas. The kitchen’s tendency to combine more ingredients in one plate than there should be in an entire multi-course meal can be challenging, but the end result is often astounding. Tataki of tuna on pickled green papaya and coconut salad with a nori (dried seaweed) purée, green peppercorn dressing and crisp buckwheat is typical of the globe-trotting concoctions this kiwi kitchen comes up with.

When to go :
If you want to be wowed by unusual flavour combinations. Breakfast is a good bet, or sample the creative tapas.
Address :

109 Marylebone High St, W1U 4RX (7935 6175). Baker St or Bond St..
Website :
http://www.theprovidores.co.uk/

From the people who created the excellent Salt Yard comes Dehesa, a Spanish-Italian tapas restaurant. The appeal is strong, in well-sourced charcuterie (available both on the bone and off), Spanish and Italian cheeses, and creative and elegant tapas dishes. The salt cod croquetas are among the best in the capital, hot and crisp with firm, meaty fish and creamy innards. The wine list is an eclectic one, offering interesting selections from lesser-known regions of Italy and Spain, and the eight sherries include a rare and gorgeously nutty palo cortado. At first Dehesa staff didn’t take bookings, meaning long waits – but thankfully they’ve changed their minds.

When to go :
A quick lunch when shopping near Carnaby Street. Tapas until you drop.

Address :
25 Ganton St, W1F 9BP (7494 4170). Oxford Circus.
Website :

Sam(uel) and Sam(antha) Clark’s restaurant has been one of London’s must-visit restaurants for more than a decade now. Its long-standing appeal could be attributed to a number of factors. One is the ever-changing, always challenging menu that isn’t afraid to incorporate flavours from all around the Mediterranean – of late, (Mr) Sam has been edging towards Turkey and Syria in the influences, away from the ‘Moorish’ food that first made their name. The convivial atmosphere is also a draw. The Spanish wine and sherry list is, for many, one of the key factors. Ten years on, it remains an exciting place to eat, drink and be very merry indeed.

: When to go
On a hip and happening weekend (book in advance, naturally). You’ll do well with most dishes, especially if they incorporate any of the following: harissa, ‘garum’ (ancient Roman fermented fish sauce), smoked tamarind.

: Address
34-36 Exmouth Market, EC1R 4QE (7833 8336). Farringdon.
: Website

Despite the opening of many rival Spanish joints, for tapas we will always think firstly and fondly of Barrafina. Modelled after the epitome of excellent tapas dining, the Cal Pep bar in Barcelona, the 23-seater (no bookings taken) has been kitchen-consistent for as long as we can remember, much like its sister venue Fino. You can’t go wrong by starting with some pimientos de padrón or golden, crisp ham croquetas – cashmere soft on the inside – with a chilled glass of sherry (a caramelly amontillado, perhaps, or a zingy manzanilla). Likewise, the seafood specials – fresh fish and crustacea on ice are in plain view behind the bar – are always a good bet if you feel like splurging (razor clams a la plancha are a firm favourite).

When to go :
Now open Sundays, it’s a good time to avoid the queues. A glass of sherry or two, some jamón, a perfectly-formed tortilla or the day’s specials.
Address :

54 Frith St, W1D 4SL (7813 8016). Tottenham Court Rd.
Website :

This new wine bar makes a big selling point of its ‘natural’ wines (most of them organic or biodynamic), but for us, the food is just as big an attraction. The small tasting plates, which you can eat at the bar counter, are even more tempting than the main courses. Piping hot soft polenta is topped with wild mushrooms; a dish of giant macaroni is topped with pumpkin and chestnut, grilled. The dishes tend to be pan-European, such as smoked duck with green beans and walnuts. For a more substantial meal, the plats du jour (pork belly and beans, cold with catalan salad) hit the spot. The service has been cheery and efficient on our visits.

When to go :
When looking for a nibble near Charing Cross. The small tasting plates are a must.
Address :

5 William IV St, WC2N 4DW (7036 0660). Charing Cross.
Website :

This isn’t your average tapas bar, with a strong Catalan influence on the remarkably contemporary creations. Prime examples include grilled asparagus with romesco sauce, pan con tomate or Majorcan rice with prawns and vegetables. Touches of nueva cucina are apparent especially in the immaculate presentation of dishes, echoed in the clean, modernist decor.

: When to go
On a warm, sunny weekend. Any of the tapas that sound unusual.
: Address

78 Northcote Rd, SW11 6QL (7350 2262). Clapham Junction.
: Website
http://www.lolarojo.net/




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‘Timeless’ and ‘classic’ are the first words that come to mind of this well-loved (and suprisingly new) institution. The opulent dining room shimmers with old-fashioned glamour, but the café area off to the sides is a more understated way to bask in this former car showroom’s luxury. Tempting cakes, splendid teas and coffees and satisfying breakfasts are the main draws, though the brasserie mains (grilled halibut, calf’s liver, roast chicken) hit the spot, too.

When to go :
Whenever the mood strikes; it’s perfect for breakfast, lunch, or afternoon tea. A soothing cream tea on a wet and rainy day.
Address :

160 Piccadilly, W1J 9EB (7499 6996). Piccadilly Circus or Green Park tube.
Website :

Although oversubscribed – it’s booked yonks ahead – the appeal of Chez Bruse is simple. It’s the sort of upmarket neighbourhood restaurant we’d all like to live near. Oenophiles in particular love it – its list shows care and flair in every country and every region. We were delighted with every dish the professional staff brought us from the Gallic-leaning menu. For example, rabbit came in various ways (terrine, rillettes, rolled breast, along with seared prunes and baked shallots): all full of flavour and the whole thing a visual treat.The best seats are near the window – make sure you specify.

When to go :
When in Wandsworth, or Balham – but book well in advance. Any of the French-oriented dishes; with wine, of course.

Address :
2 Bellevue Rd, SW17 7EG (8672 0114). Wandsworth Common rail.
Website :
http://www.chezbruce.co.uk/




MoMO

North African food in a very atmospheric setting, immediately evocative of fantasy casbahs. The sour-sweet flavours of the meat and fruit tagines are a pleasure fit for a king, and the grainy couscous is a good foil to the watery sauces. The non-traditional desserts are possibly the best thing on the menu, though the cocktails and herb teas are also excellent.

When to go :
For escapism and romance. A couscous dish, and some of the aromatic teas.

Address :
25 Heddon St, W1B 4BH (7434 4040). Piccadilly Circus.
Website :

Still as old-school as ever, and all the more charming for it, J Sheekey continues to woo Londoners and tourists alike with its theatrical buzz and stellar seafood. Choose from favourites such as fish pie and fish cakes, or select sophisticated Modern European fare that is equally accomplished – salt-baked bream, chargrilled octopus with capers and sea purslane. A more casual offshoot, the J Sheekey Oyster Bar, recently opened next door – but this main premises remains the stalwart.

When to go :
To begin a fun night on the West End. Think fishy thoughts.

Address :
28-32 St Martin’s Court, WC2N 4AL (7240 2565). Leicester Sq.

A case-study in Chinese chic done well and without the cringe factor. Visiting this louche restaurant is to descend (literally; it’s in a basement) into a world of decadence, of sultry 1930s Shanghai style with James Bond intrigue. And while Hakkasan is no longer under the sole stewardship of Alan Yau (he sold it off to an Abu Dhabi-based company in 2008), there has, so far, been no discernible dip in quality – food, drink or otherwise. The bar serves up luscious oriental-inspired cocktails (a dangerous place to linger) and the kitchen excels in the kind of creative Cantonese cooking even purists would be powerless to resist – take sweet-and-sour Berkshire pork, with its tang taken from pomegranate instead of the usual pineapple. The à la carte is wonderful to peruse, but the dim sum menu (great value, but lunch only) offers up equally sumptuous fare – venison puffs and scallop shumai with tobiko (flying fish roe) are sublime.

When to go :
At lunch, ask for the dim sum menu and order from that. To finish off, ask for the century egg congee (savoury rice porridge) served with spring onions and thinly sliced fried dough sticks.
Address :

8 Hanway Place, W1T 1HD (7907 1888). Tottenham Court Rd.
Website :

Jason Atherton never ceases to tempt and tease with his playful and inventive dishes at his flagship restaurant. The traditional à la carte is good, but it’s the ‘tasting’ dishes that really allows his skill and creativity to shine. Asian, Spanish and French influences are apparent in his British produce-led creations, done to an impeccably high standard via cutting-edge techniques. The dish we all salivated over on last summer’s Great British Menu, the deconstructed BLT with croque monsieur, delivers on every level. Other cheeky dishes include ‘beef tongue ’n’ cheek’. Maze Grill, next door, is a simple steak house in comparison.

When to go :
On a very special occasion, as you’ll have to book far in advance. A flurry of miniature ‘tasting’ dishes is the way to go.
Address :

10-13 Grosvenor Sq, W1K 6JP (7107 0000). Bond St.
Website :

It’s no surprise that L’Autre Pied recently won its first Michelin star, as sister restaurant to the fabled Pied à Terre (two stars). Marcus Eaves’ cooking is accomplished and precise, with imaginative yet well-considered flavour combinations. They look good too: translucent poached egg sat upon a vibrant green bed of crushed peas and broad beans. The surroundings have a vaguely Oriental feel, with cloisonné-like screens and dark wood. It’s a small, fairly tight-packed restaurant, best for small groups rather than tête-a-têtes.

When to go :
With friends who admire both style and substance. The lunch and pre-theatre menus (6-7pm) are particularly good value at £20.95 for three courses.
Address :

5-7 Blandford St, W1U 3DB (7486 9696). Baker St or Bond St.
Website :

For those who never thought they’d be digging into 28-day-aged Châteaubriand in Croydon, and such a good one at that, Le Cassoulet brought a glimmer of culinary hope to the denizens of south London. Chef-patron Malcolm John, who established Le Vacherin in Chiswick, brought his own philosophy of great French food with a friendly vibe to his own turf (John lives in Croydon) and it has paid off. Even in the heat of summer, his signature dish for which the restaurant is named – a rich and hearty stew of duck, pork, sausage and haricot beans – didn’t go unordered, and we’ve also been impressed with well-rendered dishes such as a simple eggs en cocotte with smoked haddock, cream and mustard; ditto a silky smooth creme brûlée that was big enough for two (or three). The service, too, is as polished as you would expect from an establishment in more monied surrounds.

When to go :
If you fancy French food without the trip into central London. Apart from the eponymous cassoulet, the kitchen also does moules marinière true justice.
Address :

18 Selsdon Rd, CR2 6PA (8633 1818). South Croydon.
Website :

Anthony Demetre and Will Smith’s second restaurant is consciously sleeker, blending into its Mayfair surrounds, but the buzz and service is as convivial as its sister restaurant, Arbutus in Soho. The food and drink menus offer much value; the former introducing rustic, warming plates of rabbit, venison, wild duck and so on while the wine list is an impressive tome with many bottles available by glass or carafe. Quality carries through from starters to desserts, with the signature wild honey ice-cream a highlight.

When to go :
When you need to impress (a) a date or (b) the in-laws. The slow-cooked dishes, such as belly pork or veal shoulder, are worth indulging in.
Address :

12 St George St, W1S 2FB (7758 9160). Oxford Circus or Bond St.
Website :
http://www.wildhoneyrestaurant.co.uk/





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The term ‘dining room’ couldn’t be more apt for chef-patron Paul Merrony’s Denmark Street eatery – barely seating 20, it’s an intimate venue that, despite its limited space, plays to its strengths. Tracey, Paul’s wife, does a splendid job of managing front of house, with classic Antipodean hospitality (the Merrony family is from Sydney, where Paul was previously an acclaimed chef). So far we’ve been impressed by the brilliance of the kitchen, with stunning dishes that deserve more than their sobre descriptions – ‘crab omelette, green salad’ was a stand-out plate of creamy omelette served in a rich seafood bisque with fat, meaty crab claws atop, while marinated raw salmon with shards of fennel was an inspired flavour combination. Late in 2008 Paul badly broke his arm, which meant Giaconda had to be closed for a while – but not for long. He re-emerged with a special ‘one-armed chef’ menu of dishes he could still cook brilliantly with his working arm, and opened only for lunch. Now that’s dedication. He’s back with two arms working now – more power to his elbow.

When to go :
For an intimate dinner with close friends who love good food. Any of the specials, and a bottle of wine from the well-crafted, well-priced list.

Address :
9 Denmark St, WC2H 8LS (7240 3334). Tottenham Court Rd tube.
Website :
http://www.giancondadining.com/

Good Argentinian food is hard to come by in London; a good Argentinian restaurant that goes beyond the meaty steakhouse stereotype is even harder. Garufa proves that while it can work a grill (the mixed ‘parrillada Garufa’ option is a carnivorous feast of four steaks, chorizo and black pudding), it does other things well, too. Take the north-eastern speciality of humitas (fried sweetcorn purée), or succulent empañadas.

When to go :
When a salad just won’t cut it. Despite their bigger ambitions, the steaks are still king.
Address :
104 Highbury Park, N5 2XE (7226 0070). Arsenal.
Website :

The menu at this Formica-furnished wine bar changes by season and by mealtime, but we’re always enjoyed the many temptations on offer, whether it’s sourdough toast with own-made jam at breakfast, seared scallops with black pudding and quince at brunch, pappardelle with puttanesa sauce at lunch-time, or smoked haddock and saffron risotto at dinner. The drinks list is one of the best in the neighbourhood, and it’s not even that pricey.

When to go :
Breakfast, lunch, or dinner. The wintery cassoulets if in season; or any of the seafood.
Address :
55 Exmouth Market, EC1R 4QL (7837 0009). Farringdon.
Website :

An outstanding local brasserie with just the right touch of luxe. The food is unapologetically French, unsurprising given that the owner, Thierry Tomasin (who also worked at Le Gavroche as a sommelier), is French – ditto the chef, Olivier Duret. The prices may be high, but you get what you pay for with beautiful dish presentation and subtle but satisfying flavours.

When to go :
For clean and pure French cooking in an atmospheric setting. The fish dishes, which perfectly show off Duret’s light touch.
Address :

4 Bathhurst St, W2 2SD (7402 0083). Lancaster Gate.
Website :

Anthony Demetre and Will Smith’s second restaurant is consciously sleeker, blending into its Mayfair surrounds, but the buzz and service is as convivial as its sister restaurant, Arbutus in Soho. The food and drink menus offer much value; the former introducing rustic, warming plates of rabbit, venison, wild duck and so on while the wine list is an impressive tome with many bottles available by glass or carafe. Quality carries through from starters to desserts, with the signature wild honey ice-cream a highlight.

When to go :
When you need to impress (a) a date or (b) the in-laws. The slow-cooked dishes, such as belly pork or veal shoulder, are worth indulging in.
Address :

12 St George St, W1S 2FB (7758 9160). Oxford Circus or Bond St.
Website :

This fantastic eatery deserves all the praise it gets – not only does the owner Emma Miles, boast commendable culinary provenance (Miles used to work for Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall’s River Cottage restaurant), they do their darndest to make the Kitchen as sustainable as possible. Nearly all produce is sourced from within the UK, which goes towards the daily-changing, seasonal creations that have us coming back for more.

When to go :
If your carbon footprint is playing on your mind. The vegetarian dishes are a delight – especially the tortillas.

Address :
27-31 Clerkenwell Close, EC1R 0AT (7101 9959). Angel or Farringdon.
Website :

A more apt name might be the Seafood Society, as this esteemed restaurant does more than just fish. This chirpy chippy offers even more – prawns, razor clams, oysters and squid among pickings, all either still swimming in the massive fish tank that greets you at the door, or looking shimmeringly fresh on ice behind the counter. Ethically sourced and expertly battered, the traditional fish and chip is every bit as good as you’d expect; we do have a soft spot for their more exotic treats though, such as prawn and chorizo kebabs, or anything served with the saffron aïoli.

When to go :
When you’re in serious need of some Omega-3. Pick your poison from the counter, or ask the friendly staff for the recommended catch of the day.
Address :
189 St John’s Hill, SW11 1TH (7978 7115). Clapham Junction rail.
Website :
http://www.thefishclub.com/




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Bold Anglo-French fare is the order of the day at this thoroughly enjoyable gastropub. Beautifully layered flavours are present in each dish we tried – creamy lamb sweetbreads with baby turnips and pickled grapes, for example, or meaty halibut set atop cider-braised bacon, peas and lettuce with a clean, savoury broth. It often feels more restaurant than pub, but it doesn’t seem to be a concern of the eclectic mix of fans that flock to the place day and night.

When to go :
For solid seasonal British food prepared and presented with a flourish. Anything that looks good – the dishes consistently deliver on taste.

Address :
91 Black Lion Lane, W6 9BG (8741 8386). Stamford Brook
Info :

Own-made charcuterie, dedication to ingredient provenance and quite possibly the best triple-cooked chips in the capital makes this revamped gastropub a firm favourite with food lovers. The fab range of draught ales includes Spitfire, Black Sheep, Old Speckled Hen and London Pride. To eat, we loved braised ox cheek with parsley risotto and roast marrow served with cassoulet; we’ll be back for Sunday lunches. To try everything – and believe us, you’ll want to – multiple visits to honour this will be obligatory thanks to the gargantuan portions.

When to go :
To warm bellies before hitting the nearby Parliament Hill farmers’ market. Bring the kids, too – child portions cost a mere £6. Anything from the blackboard, and try your hardest to fit in pudding.
Address :

168 Highgate Rd, NW5 1QS (7267 3641). Kentish Town tube/rail then 214, C1, C2, C11 bus/Gospel Oak rail.

A former Victorian gin palace, this gastropub has managed to hang on to the elegance of its former incarnation while at the same time propel itself into the present with a serious attitude to food and drink. New leaseholders Matt Wilkin and James McLean are the two to thank; Wilkin, previously head sommelier at the well-regarded Capital hotel in Knightsbridge, has conjured a fine wine list mixing both strong European wines as well as those from lesser-known regions. The ales, including Timothy Taylor Landlord and London Pride, are well-kept. Meanwhile, McLean has ensured that there’s no fustiness about the menu,which focuses on reinventing the gastropub meal with layers of flavour – fall-apart confit Barbary duck, for example, is neatly matched with soured onions, creamy fondant potato and simple winter greens; bar snacks include deep-fried pig’s cheeks with an eggy gribiche sauce, or sour-sweet guindilla peppers stuffed with mellow feta. The Princess has a lot going for it – quality without ponce, and comfort without compromising elegance.

When to go :
On a Saturday, for a slap-up lunch and a chance to peruse the artisanal food market in the carpark. Go surf and turf. The potted Dorset crab is one of the best; follow up with 28-day-aged ribeye with ludicrously tasty thrice-cooked chips.
Address :

217 Uxbridge Rd, W12 9DH (8749 5886). Shepherd’s Bush Market tube.
Website :

Angela Hartnett hasn’t disappointed with this new venture, a Gordon Ramsay Holdings project that consists of a very handsome dining room, hotel, bar (and – a bit of window-dressing really – a deli). Yet for all the fanfare, when it opened, it’s a great place that lives up to the promise. Wowing us with stunning and precise reworkings of Modern European cuisine, strongly accented with ingredients and techniques via Hartnett’s Italian background, she – along with head chef Colin Buchan – has created something very special indeed. The consistent quality of the offerings – smoked duck carpaccio or oven-baked halibut, say – is virtually guaranteed.

When to go :
For a spot of high-end cooking in kooky Camden. Any of the Modern European dishes that have an Italian accent.

Address :
127-129 Parkway, NW1 7PS (7388 3344). Camden Town.

There are many pubs laying claim to serving ‘seasonal, local and natural produce’, but Mike Robinson’s Fulham venture actually transcends it. A well-known game specialist, Robinson himself actually hunts for all the deer that will form the base of dishes such as roast venison T-bone with cavolo nero and mushroom ketchup. Much of the menu uses wild ingredients sourced from land in and around the woods near Robinson’s first gastropub, The Pot Kiln in Berkshire. Everything we tried was superb, and washed down nicely with the well-kept ales (including Black Sheep bitter, or the current guest ale, Good Old Boy from the West Berkshire Brewery).

When to go :
For a bone-warming, conscience-free game meal. Pigeon, venison, rabbit – all good. With warm Bramley apple doughnuts to end.
Address :

27 Walham Grove, SW6 1QP (7386 1847). Fulham Broadway.
Website :
http://www.harwoodarms.com/



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