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Jason Atherton never ceases to tempt and tease with his playful and inventive dishes at his flagship restaurant. The traditional à la carte is good, but it’s the ‘tasting’ dishes that really allows his skill and creativity to shine. Asian, Spanish and French influences are apparent in his British produce-led creations, done to an impeccably high standard via cutting-edge techniques. The dish we all salivated over on last summer’s Great British Menu, the deconstructed BLT with croque monsieur, delivers on every level. Other cheeky dishes include ‘beef tongue ’n’ cheek’. Maze Grill, next door, is a simple steak house in comparison.

When to go :
On a very special occasion, as you’ll have to book far in advance. A flurry of miniature ‘tasting’ dishes is the way to go.

Address :
10-13 Grosvenor Sq, W1K 6JP (7107 0000). Bond St.
Website :

While the upstairs Providores (the formal dining room) is an indulgent treat, we favour the buzzing ground floor Tapa Room for its innovative breakfasts and all-day menu of small dishes and tapas. The kitchen’s tendency to combine more ingredients in one plate than there should be in an entire multi-course meal can be challenging, but the end result is often astounding. Tataki of tuna on pickled green papaya and coconut salad with a nori (dried seaweed) purée, green peppercorn dressing and crisp buckwheat is typical of the globe-trotting concoctions this kiwi kitchen comes up with.

When to go :
If you want to be wowed by unusual flavour combinations. Breakfast is a good bet, or sample the creative tapas.
Address :

109 Marylebone High St, W1U 4RX (7935 6175). Baker St or Bond St..
Website :
http://www.theprovidores.co.uk/

From the people who created the excellent Salt Yard comes Dehesa, a Spanish-Italian tapas restaurant. The appeal is strong, in well-sourced charcuterie (available both on the bone and off), Spanish and Italian cheeses, and creative and elegant tapas dishes. The salt cod croquetas are among the best in the capital, hot and crisp with firm, meaty fish and creamy innards. The wine list is an eclectic one, offering interesting selections from lesser-known regions of Italy and Spain, and the eight sherries include a rare and gorgeously nutty palo cortado. At first Dehesa staff didn’t take bookings, meaning long waits – but thankfully they’ve changed their minds.

When to go :
A quick lunch when shopping near Carnaby Street. Tapas until you drop.

Address :
25 Ganton St, W1F 9BP (7494 4170). Oxford Circus.
Website :

Sam(uel) and Sam(antha) Clark’s restaurant has been one of London’s must-visit restaurants for more than a decade now. Its long-standing appeal could be attributed to a number of factors. One is the ever-changing, always challenging menu that isn’t afraid to incorporate flavours from all around the Mediterranean – of late, (Mr) Sam has been edging towards Turkey and Syria in the influences, away from the ‘Moorish’ food that first made their name. The convivial atmosphere is also a draw. The Spanish wine and sherry list is, for many, one of the key factors. Ten years on, it remains an exciting place to eat, drink and be very merry indeed.

: When to go
On a hip and happening weekend (book in advance, naturally). You’ll do well with most dishes, especially if they incorporate any of the following: harissa, ‘garum’ (ancient Roman fermented fish sauce), smoked tamarind.

: Address
34-36 Exmouth Market, EC1R 4QE (7833 8336). Farringdon.
: Website

Despite the opening of many rival Spanish joints, for tapas we will always think firstly and fondly of Barrafina. Modelled after the epitome of excellent tapas dining, the Cal Pep bar in Barcelona, the 23-seater (no bookings taken) has been kitchen-consistent for as long as we can remember, much like its sister venue Fino. You can’t go wrong by starting with some pimientos de padrón or golden, crisp ham croquetas – cashmere soft on the inside – with a chilled glass of sherry (a caramelly amontillado, perhaps, or a zingy manzanilla). Likewise, the seafood specials – fresh fish and crustacea on ice are in plain view behind the bar – are always a good bet if you feel like splurging (razor clams a la plancha are a firm favourite).

When to go :
Now open Sundays, it’s a good time to avoid the queues. A glass of sherry or two, some jamón, a perfectly-formed tortilla or the day’s specials.
Address :

54 Frith St, W1D 4SL (7813 8016). Tottenham Court Rd.
Website :

This new wine bar makes a big selling point of its ‘natural’ wines (most of them organic or biodynamic), but for us, the food is just as big an attraction. The small tasting plates, which you can eat at the bar counter, are even more tempting than the main courses. Piping hot soft polenta is topped with wild mushrooms; a dish of giant macaroni is topped with pumpkin and chestnut, grilled. The dishes tend to be pan-European, such as smoked duck with green beans and walnuts. For a more substantial meal, the plats du jour (pork belly and beans, cold with catalan salad) hit the spot. The service has been cheery and efficient on our visits.

When to go :
When looking for a nibble near Charing Cross. The small tasting plates are a must.
Address :

5 William IV St, WC2N 4DW (7036 0660). Charing Cross.
Website :

This isn’t your average tapas bar, with a strong Catalan influence on the remarkably contemporary creations. Prime examples include grilled asparagus with romesco sauce, pan con tomate or Majorcan rice with prawns and vegetables. Touches of nueva cucina are apparent especially in the immaculate presentation of dishes, echoed in the clean, modernist decor.

: When to go
On a warm, sunny weekend. Any of the tapas that sound unusual.
: Address

78 Northcote Rd, SW11 6QL (7350 2262). Clapham Junction.
: Website
http://www.lolarojo.net/




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