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There are many pubs laying claim to serving ‘seasonal, local and natural produce’, but Mike Robinson’s Fulham venture actually transcends it. A well-known game specialist, Robinson himself actually hunts for all the deer that will form the base of dishes such as roast venison T-bone with cavolo nero and mushroom ketchup. Much of the menu uses wild ingredients sourced from land in and around the woods near Robinson’s first gastropub, The Pot Kiln in Berkshire. Everything we tried was superb, and washed down nicely with the well-kept ales (including Black Sheep bitter, or the current guest ale, Good Old Boy from the West Berkshire Brewery).

When to go :
For a bone-warming, conscience-free game meal. Pigeon, venison, rabbit – all good. With warm Bramley apple doughnuts to end.

Address :
27 Walham Grove, SW6 1QP (7386 1847). Fulham Broadway.

Tom Pemberton really has come into his own since his days as chef at St John and St John Bread & Wine – if pressed, it would be hard to regard St John over Hereford Road. The strength here, like at St John, is honest, bold British cooking; signature dishes such as cockles with cider, whole braised oxtail and devilled kidneys on toast are simple and consistently brilliant. Naturally, Pemberton’s team is confident with the offal – trust them with the more challenging dishes such as deep-fried calves’ brains with black butter, a textural delight and flavoured effortlessly.

When to go :
If you ever find yourself in the company of a visitor who still laughs at the notion of ‘British cuisine’. Simple goes a long way – crabs on toast is a winner, as is calf’s liver with onion and mash.
Address :
3 Hereford Rd, W2 4AB (7727 1144). Notting Hill Gate.
Website :
http://www.herefordroad.org/

Simple is best, and there is no better champion of simplicity than Fergus Henderson’s original ‘nose to tail’ eatery. Food lovers still wax lyrical about the signature roast bone marrow with parsley salad (the marrow a wow-factor ingredient now widely copied by other establishments); and there is much else to be enjoyed from the daily-changing menu of seasonal British dishes. Ox cheek and bacon pie, for example, is meaty proper, or try the classic Eccles cake with Lancashire cheese as a dessert. It would seem that even the Michelin men, known for their love of classic French cuisine, have finally deemed it worthy of a star – only confirming what we all knew from the beginning.

When to go :
Earlier in the week, where dinner service is less hectic. The reputation rests on offal – you’d do well to order accordingly.

Address :
26 St John St, EC1M 4AY (7251 0848). Barbican.
Website :

A more apt name might be the Seafood Society, as this esteemed restaurant does more than just fish. This chirpy chippy offers even more – prawns, razor clams, oysters and squid among pickings, all either still swimming in the massive fish tank that greets you at the door, or looking shimmeringly fresh on ice behind the counter. Ethically sourced and expertly battered, the traditional fish and chip is every bit as good as you’d expect; we do have a soft spot for their more exotic treats though, such as prawn and chorizo kebabs, or anything served with the saffron aïoli.

When to go :
When you’re in serious need of some Omega-3. Pick your poison from the counter, or ask the friendly staff for the recommended catch of the day.
Address :

189 St John’s Hill, SW11 1TH (7978 7115). Clapham Junction.

Head chef Tristan Welch, formerly of Petrus (now called Marcus Wareing at the Berkeley), has swapped French-style elegance for playful Modern British cooking at this reinvented Kensington stalwart. Now part of D&D London, Launceston Place has ditched the dowdiness for pristine chic – yet, despite the upgrade (style, food and otherwise), you can eat well here without remortgaging the house. The three-course set lunch, priced at £18, is tremendous value. While the infinitely more luxurious dishes (Tamworth suckling pig, scallop in the shell) are reserved for the à la carte, tasting or set dinner menus, we never felt at all compromised. Spider crab risotto was served in gorgeous crockery, the crustacean’s empty shell (used as a lid) removed with a flourish; a venison casserole with creamy pumpkin purée and trompettes was sublime, earthy. We left pampered, but not as paupers.

When to go :
During lunch; you’ll still get all the bells and whistles (amuse bouch, pre-dessert, petits fours) for a neat price. The Cornish cream tea pudding is a witty rendition, with tea ice-cream and raspberry foam to accompany the trad scone and clotted cream.
Address :

1A Launceston Place, W8 5RL (7937 6912). Gloucester Rd or High St Kensington.
Website :

Terence Conran still has the magic touch, it would seem. His latest endeavour ‘The Boundary Project’ includes a caff (Albion), food shop and bakery, smart dining room (The Boundary) – and a hotel and rooftop bar ’n’ grill to open later in the year. It’s Team GB all the way at Albion, with well-priced, straightforward and nostalgia-tinged British food. The menu covers the expected fry-ups and nostalgia puds (apple crumble and custard), yet the cooking is surprisingly refined. The setting is as comforting as the food, with perky service to match.

When to go :
When you need some something soothing to line your stomach. Whatever calls to you – pies, puddings, a massive bacon sarnie.

Address :
2-4 Boundary St, E2 7JE (7729 1051). Liverpool.
Website :
http://www.albioncaff.co.uk/

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