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After stints at some of London’s most famous Italian restaurants between them – Antonio Carluccio’s Neal Street, Gennaro Contaldo’s Passione and Jamie Oliver’s Fifteen – Mario Magli and Giorgio Pili’s modest neighbourhood eatery is up there with the rest of them. Even the bread is own-made, and you won’t find lighter gnocci elsewhere; here, it’s served with excellent Italian sausage in a fennel seed and tomato sauce. Other dishes, such as red snapper ragu with pappardelle, are a refreshing change from the usual carbonaras, bolognese and marinaras.

When to go :
incredibly good Italian that veers from the obvious. Start with the plump Puglia green olives and any of the pastas.

Address :
782 Holloway Rd, N19 3JH (7272 3406). Archway tube or Upper Holloway rail.
Website :
http://www.500restaurant.co.uk/

Inside, it’s all restrained glamour and minimalist chic, but Calabrian chef Francesco Mazzei commands a kitchen capable of producing immensely satisfying pan-Italian dishes. That classic Venetian speciality, fritto misto (fried seafood) is done faultlessly, while unique ingredients are used to great effect. Look for nduja, a creamy-textured Calabrian spicy salami, or bottarga from Sardinia (dried grey mullet roe).
When to go :
When you hanker for Italian food – but not as you know it. Do save room for the imaginative desserts, which are beautifully presented.

Address :
1 Snowden St, EC2A 2DQ (7422 7000). Liverpool St tube/rail.
Website :
http://www.lanima.co.uk/

A top-of-the-range Neapolitan wood burning brick oven; sourdough left to rise for a minimum of 20 hours; organic flour, vegetables, meats (from Brindisa), cheese and tipples. We could think of many places that would (and do) charge a premium for such solid efforts, but no – the most expensive pizza at Franco Manca is a jaw-dropping £5.60, the cheapest but by no stretch the least delicious (classic tomato, garlic and oregano) is £3.90. Wines by the glass, unbelievably, go for less than two quid (and contrary to logic, are pretty drinkable). Its location in ragtag Brixton Market only adds to its haphazard charm – a particular brand of speedy service with a smile.

: When to go
Weekdays, off-peak; unless you fancy joining queues of epic proportions. We can’t fault any of the six pizzas on offer, but you can always try your luck and ask for something bespoke.
: Address

4 Market Row, SW9 8LD (7738 3021). Brixton.
: Website

There’s no doubt about it: Bocca di Lupo is the food-lovers’ restaurant of the moment. Chef Jacob Kenedy was previously chef at Moro, and has created a very similar approach of serving interesting, varied, daily-changing small dishes to share. The feel is similar too: casual and a bit too loud perhaps, but it certainly has a buzz to it. The big difference when compared to Moro is the origin of the cuisine: Kenedy has plucked classic plus more innovative ingredient combinations from every region of Italy, and presents them simply; ingredient quality is to the fore. Perhaps the most surprising thing is just how Italian the food tastes; this is not like the ersatz tastes you might expect. A simple salad of Castelfranco raddichio (a cream-coloured, slightly tart winter leaf) is simply served with hazelnuts and the maroon-coloured, bitter treviso shoots, reflecting the Italian fondness for bitter flavours. The Jewish-Roman technique of deep-frying young artichokes renders the leaves crisp, the centres soft; these are paired with the melting richness of veal sweetbreads. Our only caveat – this in the early days, mind – is that the tables are packed in far too tightly, and the table service can at times be slow or even careless. Despite this, go if you want really good Italian food at a fair price.

When to go :
When in Soho, with a lively group of friends. Small plates of sharing dishes, tapas-style; or the one-plate lunch specials (costing around a tenner) at the bar.
Address :
12 Archer St, W1D 7BB (7734 2223). Piccadilly Circus.
Website :
http://www.boccadilupo.com/



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