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The term ‘dining room’ couldn’t be more apt for chef-patron Paul Merrony’s Denmark Street eatery – barely seating 20, it’s an intimate venue that, despite its limited space, plays to its strengths. Tracey, Paul’s wife, does a splendid job of managing front of house, with classic Antipodean hospitality (the Merrony family is from Sydney, where Paul was previously an acclaimed chef). So far we’ve been impressed by the brilliance of the kitchen, with stunning dishes that deserve more than their sobre descriptions – ‘crab omelette, green salad’ was a stand-out plate of creamy omelette served in a rich seafood bisque with fat, meaty crab claws atop, while marinated raw salmon with shards of fennel was an inspired flavour combination. Late in 2008 Paul badly broke his arm, which meant Giaconda had to be closed for a while – but not for long. He re-emerged with a special ‘one-armed chef’ menu of dishes he could still cook brilliantly with his working arm, and opened only for lunch. Now that’s dedication. He’s back with two arms working now – more power to his elbow.

When to go :
For an intimate dinner with close friends who love good food. Any of the specials, and a bottle of wine from the well-crafted, well-priced list.

Address :
9 Denmark St, WC2H 8LS (7240 3334). Tottenham Court Rd tube.
Website :
http://www.giancondadining.com/

Good Argentinian food is hard to come by in London; a good Argentinian restaurant that goes beyond the meaty steakhouse stereotype is even harder. Garufa proves that while it can work a grill (the mixed ‘parrillada Garufa’ option is a carnivorous feast of four steaks, chorizo and black pudding), it does other things well, too. Take the north-eastern speciality of humitas (fried sweetcorn purée), or succulent empañadas.

When to go :
When a salad just won’t cut it. Despite their bigger ambitions, the steaks are still king.
Address :
104 Highbury Park, N5 2XE (7226 0070). Arsenal.
Website :

The menu at this Formica-furnished wine bar changes by season and by mealtime, but we’re always enjoyed the many temptations on offer, whether it’s sourdough toast with own-made jam at breakfast, seared scallops with black pudding and quince at brunch, pappardelle with puttanesa sauce at lunch-time, or smoked haddock and saffron risotto at dinner. The drinks list is one of the best in the neighbourhood, and it’s not even that pricey.

When to go :
Breakfast, lunch, or dinner. The wintery cassoulets if in season; or any of the seafood.
Address :
55 Exmouth Market, EC1R 4QL (7837 0009). Farringdon.
Website :

An outstanding local brasserie with just the right touch of luxe. The food is unapologetically French, unsurprising given that the owner, Thierry Tomasin (who also worked at Le Gavroche as a sommelier), is French – ditto the chef, Olivier Duret. The prices may be high, but you get what you pay for with beautiful dish presentation and subtle but satisfying flavours.

When to go :
For clean and pure French cooking in an atmospheric setting. The fish dishes, which perfectly show off Duret’s light touch.
Address :

4 Bathhurst St, W2 2SD (7402 0083). Lancaster Gate.
Website :

Anthony Demetre and Will Smith’s second restaurant is consciously sleeker, blending into its Mayfair surrounds, but the buzz and service is as convivial as its sister restaurant, Arbutus in Soho. The food and drink menus offer much value; the former introducing rustic, warming plates of rabbit, venison, wild duck and so on while the wine list is an impressive tome with many bottles available by glass or carafe. Quality carries through from starters to desserts, with the signature wild honey ice-cream a highlight.

When to go :
When you need to impress (a) a date or (b) the in-laws. The slow-cooked dishes, such as belly pork or veal shoulder, are worth indulging in.
Address :

12 St George St, W1S 2FB (7758 9160). Oxford Circus or Bond St.
Website :

This fantastic eatery deserves all the praise it gets – not only does the owner Emma Miles, boast commendable culinary provenance (Miles used to work for Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall’s River Cottage restaurant), they do their darndest to make the Kitchen as sustainable as possible. Nearly all produce is sourced from within the UK, which goes towards the daily-changing, seasonal creations that have us coming back for more.

When to go :
If your carbon footprint is playing on your mind. The vegetarian dishes are a delight – especially the tortillas.

Address :
27-31 Clerkenwell Close, EC1R 0AT (7101 9959). Angel or Farringdon.
Website :

A more apt name might be the Seafood Society, as this esteemed restaurant does more than just fish. This chirpy chippy offers even more – prawns, razor clams, oysters and squid among pickings, all either still swimming in the massive fish tank that greets you at the door, or looking shimmeringly fresh on ice behind the counter. Ethically sourced and expertly battered, the traditional fish and chip is every bit as good as you’d expect; we do have a soft spot for their more exotic treats though, such as prawn and chorizo kebabs, or anything served with the saffron aïoli.

When to go :
When you’re in serious need of some Omega-3. Pick your poison from the counter, or ask the friendly staff for the recommended catch of the day.
Address :
189 St John’s Hill, SW11 1TH (7978 7115). Clapham Junction rail.
Website :
http://www.thefishclub.com/




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