Website For You

Jason Atherton never ceases to tempt and tease with his playful and inventive dishes at his flagship restaurant. The traditional à la carte is good, but it’s the ‘tasting’ dishes that really allows his skill and creativity to shine. Asian, Spanish and French influences are apparent in his British produce-led creations, done to an impeccably high standard via cutting-edge techniques. The dish we all salivated over on last summer’s Great British Menu, the deconstructed BLT with croque monsieur, delivers on every level. Other cheeky dishes include ‘beef tongue ’n’ cheek’. Maze Grill, next door, is a simple steak house in comparison.

When to go :
On a very special occasion, as you’ll have to book far in advance. A flurry of miniature ‘tasting’ dishes is the way to go.

Address :
10-13 Grosvenor Sq, W1K 6JP (7107 0000). Bond St.
Website :

While the upstairs Providores (the formal dining room) is an indulgent treat, we favour the buzzing ground floor Tapa Room for its innovative breakfasts and all-day menu of small dishes and tapas. The kitchen’s tendency to combine more ingredients in one plate than there should be in an entire multi-course meal can be challenging, but the end result is often astounding. Tataki of tuna on pickled green papaya and coconut salad with a nori (dried seaweed) purée, green peppercorn dressing and crisp buckwheat is typical of the globe-trotting concoctions this kiwi kitchen comes up with.

When to go :
If you want to be wowed by unusual flavour combinations. Breakfast is a good bet, or sample the creative tapas.
Address :

109 Marylebone High St, W1U 4RX (7935 6175). Baker St or Bond St..
Website :
http://www.theprovidores.co.uk/

From the people who created the excellent Salt Yard comes Dehesa, a Spanish-Italian tapas restaurant. The appeal is strong, in well-sourced charcuterie (available both on the bone and off), Spanish and Italian cheeses, and creative and elegant tapas dishes. The salt cod croquetas are among the best in the capital, hot and crisp with firm, meaty fish and creamy innards. The wine list is an eclectic one, offering interesting selections from lesser-known regions of Italy and Spain, and the eight sherries include a rare and gorgeously nutty palo cortado. At first Dehesa staff didn’t take bookings, meaning long waits – but thankfully they’ve changed their minds.

When to go :
A quick lunch when shopping near Carnaby Street. Tapas until you drop.

Address :
25 Ganton St, W1F 9BP (7494 4170). Oxford Circus.
Website :

Sam(uel) and Sam(antha) Clark’s restaurant has been one of London’s must-visit restaurants for more than a decade now. Its long-standing appeal could be attributed to a number of factors. One is the ever-changing, always challenging menu that isn’t afraid to incorporate flavours from all around the Mediterranean – of late, (Mr) Sam has been edging towards Turkey and Syria in the influences, away from the ‘Moorish’ food that first made their name. The convivial atmosphere is also a draw. The Spanish wine and sherry list is, for many, one of the key factors. Ten years on, it remains an exciting place to eat, drink and be very merry indeed.

: When to go
On a hip and happening weekend (book in advance, naturally). You’ll do well with most dishes, especially if they incorporate any of the following: harissa, ‘garum’ (ancient Roman fermented fish sauce), smoked tamarind.

: Address
34-36 Exmouth Market, EC1R 4QE (7833 8336). Farringdon.
: Website

Despite the opening of many rival Spanish joints, for tapas we will always think firstly and fondly of Barrafina. Modelled after the epitome of excellent tapas dining, the Cal Pep bar in Barcelona, the 23-seater (no bookings taken) has been kitchen-consistent for as long as we can remember, much like its sister venue Fino. You can’t go wrong by starting with some pimientos de padrón or golden, crisp ham croquetas – cashmere soft on the inside – with a chilled glass of sherry (a caramelly amontillado, perhaps, or a zingy manzanilla). Likewise, the seafood specials – fresh fish and crustacea on ice are in plain view behind the bar – are always a good bet if you feel like splurging (razor clams a la plancha are a firm favourite).

When to go :
Now open Sundays, it’s a good time to avoid the queues. A glass of sherry or two, some jamón, a perfectly-formed tortilla or the day’s specials.
Address :

54 Frith St, W1D 4SL (7813 8016). Tottenham Court Rd.
Website :

This new wine bar makes a big selling point of its ‘natural’ wines (most of them organic or biodynamic), but for us, the food is just as big an attraction. The small tasting plates, which you can eat at the bar counter, are even more tempting than the main courses. Piping hot soft polenta is topped with wild mushrooms; a dish of giant macaroni is topped with pumpkin and chestnut, grilled. The dishes tend to be pan-European, such as smoked duck with green beans and walnuts. For a more substantial meal, the plats du jour (pork belly and beans, cold with catalan salad) hit the spot. The service has been cheery and efficient on our visits.

When to go :
When looking for a nibble near Charing Cross. The small tasting plates are a must.
Address :

5 William IV St, WC2N 4DW (7036 0660). Charing Cross.
Website :

This isn’t your average tapas bar, with a strong Catalan influence on the remarkably contemporary creations. Prime examples include grilled asparagus with romesco sauce, pan con tomate or Majorcan rice with prawns and vegetables. Touches of nueva cucina are apparent especially in the immaculate presentation of dishes, echoed in the clean, modernist decor.

: When to go
On a warm, sunny weekend. Any of the tapas that sound unusual.
: Address

78 Northcote Rd, SW11 6QL (7350 2262). Clapham Junction.
: Website
http://www.lolarojo.net/




Page 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10

‘Timeless’ and ‘classic’ are the first words that come to mind of this well-loved (and suprisingly new) institution. The opulent dining room shimmers with old-fashioned glamour, but the café area off to the sides is a more understated way to bask in this former car showroom’s luxury. Tempting cakes, splendid teas and coffees and satisfying breakfasts are the main draws, though the brasserie mains (grilled halibut, calf’s liver, roast chicken) hit the spot, too.

When to go :
Whenever the mood strikes; it’s perfect for breakfast, lunch, or afternoon tea. A soothing cream tea on a wet and rainy day.
Address :

160 Piccadilly, W1J 9EB (7499 6996). Piccadilly Circus or Green Park tube.
Website :

Although oversubscribed – it’s booked yonks ahead – the appeal of Chez Bruse is simple. It’s the sort of upmarket neighbourhood restaurant we’d all like to live near. Oenophiles in particular love it – its list shows care and flair in every country and every region. We were delighted with every dish the professional staff brought us from the Gallic-leaning menu. For example, rabbit came in various ways (terrine, rillettes, rolled breast, along with seared prunes and baked shallots): all full of flavour and the whole thing a visual treat.The best seats are near the window – make sure you specify.

When to go :
When in Wandsworth, or Balham – but book well in advance. Any of the French-oriented dishes; with wine, of course.

Address :
2 Bellevue Rd, SW17 7EG (8672 0114). Wandsworth Common rail.
Website :
http://www.chezbruce.co.uk/




MoMO

North African food in a very atmospheric setting, immediately evocative of fantasy casbahs. The sour-sweet flavours of the meat and fruit tagines are a pleasure fit for a king, and the grainy couscous is a good foil to the watery sauces. The non-traditional desserts are possibly the best thing on the menu, though the cocktails and herb teas are also excellent.

When to go :
For escapism and romance. A couscous dish, and some of the aromatic teas.

Address :
25 Heddon St, W1B 4BH (7434 4040). Piccadilly Circus.
Website :

Still as old-school as ever, and all the more charming for it, J Sheekey continues to woo Londoners and tourists alike with its theatrical buzz and stellar seafood. Choose from favourites such as fish pie and fish cakes, or select sophisticated Modern European fare that is equally accomplished – salt-baked bream, chargrilled octopus with capers and sea purslane. A more casual offshoot, the J Sheekey Oyster Bar, recently opened next door – but this main premises remains the stalwart.

When to go :
To begin a fun night on the West End. Think fishy thoughts.

Address :
28-32 St Martin’s Court, WC2N 4AL (7240 2565). Leicester Sq.

A case-study in Chinese chic done well and without the cringe factor. Visiting this louche restaurant is to descend (literally; it’s in a basement) into a world of decadence, of sultry 1930s Shanghai style with James Bond intrigue. And while Hakkasan is no longer under the sole stewardship of Alan Yau (he sold it off to an Abu Dhabi-based company in 2008), there has, so far, been no discernible dip in quality – food, drink or otherwise. The bar serves up luscious oriental-inspired cocktails (a dangerous place to linger) and the kitchen excels in the kind of creative Cantonese cooking even purists would be powerless to resist – take sweet-and-sour Berkshire pork, with its tang taken from pomegranate instead of the usual pineapple. The à la carte is wonderful to peruse, but the dim sum menu (great value, but lunch only) offers up equally sumptuous fare – venison puffs and scallop shumai with tobiko (flying fish roe) are sublime.

When to go :
At lunch, ask for the dim sum menu and order from that. To finish off, ask for the century egg congee (savoury rice porridge) served with spring onions and thinly sliced fried dough sticks.
Address :

8 Hanway Place, W1T 1HD (7907 1888). Tottenham Court Rd.
Website :

Jason Atherton never ceases to tempt and tease with his playful and inventive dishes at his flagship restaurant. The traditional à la carte is good, but it’s the ‘tasting’ dishes that really allows his skill and creativity to shine. Asian, Spanish and French influences are apparent in his British produce-led creations, done to an impeccably high standard via cutting-edge techniques. The dish we all salivated over on last summer’s Great British Menu, the deconstructed BLT with croque monsieur, delivers on every level. Other cheeky dishes include ‘beef tongue ’n’ cheek’. Maze Grill, next door, is a simple steak house in comparison.

When to go :
On a very special occasion, as you’ll have to book far in advance. A flurry of miniature ‘tasting’ dishes is the way to go.
Address :

10-13 Grosvenor Sq, W1K 6JP (7107 0000). Bond St.
Website :

It’s no surprise that L’Autre Pied recently won its first Michelin star, as sister restaurant to the fabled Pied à Terre (two stars). Marcus Eaves’ cooking is accomplished and precise, with imaginative yet well-considered flavour combinations. They look good too: translucent poached egg sat upon a vibrant green bed of crushed peas and broad beans. The surroundings have a vaguely Oriental feel, with cloisonné-like screens and dark wood. It’s a small, fairly tight-packed restaurant, best for small groups rather than tête-a-têtes.

When to go :
With friends who admire both style and substance. The lunch and pre-theatre menus (6-7pm) are particularly good value at £20.95 for three courses.
Address :

5-7 Blandford St, W1U 3DB (7486 9696). Baker St or Bond St.
Website :

For those who never thought they’d be digging into 28-day-aged Châteaubriand in Croydon, and such a good one at that, Le Cassoulet brought a glimmer of culinary hope to the denizens of south London. Chef-patron Malcolm John, who established Le Vacherin in Chiswick, brought his own philosophy of great French food with a friendly vibe to his own turf (John lives in Croydon) and it has paid off. Even in the heat of summer, his signature dish for which the restaurant is named – a rich and hearty stew of duck, pork, sausage and haricot beans – didn’t go unordered, and we’ve also been impressed with well-rendered dishes such as a simple eggs en cocotte with smoked haddock, cream and mustard; ditto a silky smooth creme brûlée that was big enough for two (or three). The service, too, is as polished as you would expect from an establishment in more monied surrounds.

When to go :
If you fancy French food without the trip into central London. Apart from the eponymous cassoulet, the kitchen also does moules marinière true justice.
Address :

18 Selsdon Rd, CR2 6PA (8633 1818). South Croydon.
Website :

Anthony Demetre and Will Smith’s second restaurant is consciously sleeker, blending into its Mayfair surrounds, but the buzz and service is as convivial as its sister restaurant, Arbutus in Soho. The food and drink menus offer much value; the former introducing rustic, warming plates of rabbit, venison, wild duck and so on while the wine list is an impressive tome with many bottles available by glass or carafe. Quality carries through from starters to desserts, with the signature wild honey ice-cream a highlight.

When to go :
When you need to impress (a) a date or (b) the in-laws. The slow-cooked dishes, such as belly pork or veal shoulder, are worth indulging in.
Address :

12 St George St, W1S 2FB (7758 9160). Oxford Circus or Bond St.
Website :
http://www.wildhoneyrestaurant.co.uk/





Page 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10

The term ‘dining room’ couldn’t be more apt for chef-patron Paul Merrony’s Denmark Street eatery – barely seating 20, it’s an intimate venue that, despite its limited space, plays to its strengths. Tracey, Paul’s wife, does a splendid job of managing front of house, with classic Antipodean hospitality (the Merrony family is from Sydney, where Paul was previously an acclaimed chef). So far we’ve been impressed by the brilliance of the kitchen, with stunning dishes that deserve more than their sobre descriptions – ‘crab omelette, green salad’ was a stand-out plate of creamy omelette served in a rich seafood bisque with fat, meaty crab claws atop, while marinated raw salmon with shards of fennel was an inspired flavour combination. Late in 2008 Paul badly broke his arm, which meant Giaconda had to be closed for a while – but not for long. He re-emerged with a special ‘one-armed chef’ menu of dishes he could still cook brilliantly with his working arm, and opened only for lunch. Now that’s dedication. He’s back with two arms working now – more power to his elbow.

When to go :
For an intimate dinner with close friends who love good food. Any of the specials, and a bottle of wine from the well-crafted, well-priced list.

Address :
9 Denmark St, WC2H 8LS (7240 3334). Tottenham Court Rd tube.
Website :
http://www.giancondadining.com/

Good Argentinian food is hard to come by in London; a good Argentinian restaurant that goes beyond the meaty steakhouse stereotype is even harder. Garufa proves that while it can work a grill (the mixed ‘parrillada Garufa’ option is a carnivorous feast of four steaks, chorizo and black pudding), it does other things well, too. Take the north-eastern speciality of humitas (fried sweetcorn purée), or succulent empañadas.

When to go :
When a salad just won’t cut it. Despite their bigger ambitions, the steaks are still king.
Address :
104 Highbury Park, N5 2XE (7226 0070). Arsenal.
Website :

The menu at this Formica-furnished wine bar changes by season and by mealtime, but we’re always enjoyed the many temptations on offer, whether it’s sourdough toast with own-made jam at breakfast, seared scallops with black pudding and quince at brunch, pappardelle with puttanesa sauce at lunch-time, or smoked haddock and saffron risotto at dinner. The drinks list is one of the best in the neighbourhood, and it’s not even that pricey.

When to go :
Breakfast, lunch, or dinner. The wintery cassoulets if in season; or any of the seafood.
Address :
55 Exmouth Market, EC1R 4QL (7837 0009). Farringdon.
Website :

An outstanding local brasserie with just the right touch of luxe. The food is unapologetically French, unsurprising given that the owner, Thierry Tomasin (who also worked at Le Gavroche as a sommelier), is French – ditto the chef, Olivier Duret. The prices may be high, but you get what you pay for with beautiful dish presentation and subtle but satisfying flavours.

When to go :
For clean and pure French cooking in an atmospheric setting. The fish dishes, which perfectly show off Duret’s light touch.
Address :

4 Bathhurst St, W2 2SD (7402 0083). Lancaster Gate.
Website :

Anthony Demetre and Will Smith’s second restaurant is consciously sleeker, blending into its Mayfair surrounds, but the buzz and service is as convivial as its sister restaurant, Arbutus in Soho. The food and drink menus offer much value; the former introducing rustic, warming plates of rabbit, venison, wild duck and so on while the wine list is an impressive tome with many bottles available by glass or carafe. Quality carries through from starters to desserts, with the signature wild honey ice-cream a highlight.

When to go :
When you need to impress (a) a date or (b) the in-laws. The slow-cooked dishes, such as belly pork or veal shoulder, are worth indulging in.
Address :

12 St George St, W1S 2FB (7758 9160). Oxford Circus or Bond St.
Website :

This fantastic eatery deserves all the praise it gets – not only does the owner Emma Miles, boast commendable culinary provenance (Miles used to work for Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall’s River Cottage restaurant), they do their darndest to make the Kitchen as sustainable as possible. Nearly all produce is sourced from within the UK, which goes towards the daily-changing, seasonal creations that have us coming back for more.

When to go :
If your carbon footprint is playing on your mind. The vegetarian dishes are a delight – especially the tortillas.

Address :
27-31 Clerkenwell Close, EC1R 0AT (7101 9959). Angel or Farringdon.
Website :

A more apt name might be the Seafood Society, as this esteemed restaurant does more than just fish. This chirpy chippy offers even more – prawns, razor clams, oysters and squid among pickings, all either still swimming in the massive fish tank that greets you at the door, or looking shimmeringly fresh on ice behind the counter. Ethically sourced and expertly battered, the traditional fish and chip is every bit as good as you’d expect; we do have a soft spot for their more exotic treats though, such as prawn and chorizo kebabs, or anything served with the saffron aïoli.

When to go :
When you’re in serious need of some Omega-3. Pick your poison from the counter, or ask the friendly staff for the recommended catch of the day.
Address :
189 St John’s Hill, SW11 1TH (7978 7115). Clapham Junction rail.
Website :
http://www.thefishclub.com/




Page 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10

Bold Anglo-French fare is the order of the day at this thoroughly enjoyable gastropub. Beautifully layered flavours are present in each dish we tried – creamy lamb sweetbreads with baby turnips and pickled grapes, for example, or meaty halibut set atop cider-braised bacon, peas and lettuce with a clean, savoury broth. It often feels more restaurant than pub, but it doesn’t seem to be a concern of the eclectic mix of fans that flock to the place day and night.

When to go :
For solid seasonal British food prepared and presented with a flourish. Anything that looks good – the dishes consistently deliver on taste.

Address :
91 Black Lion Lane, W6 9BG (8741 8386). Stamford Brook
Info :

Own-made charcuterie, dedication to ingredient provenance and quite possibly the best triple-cooked chips in the capital makes this revamped gastropub a firm favourite with food lovers. The fab range of draught ales includes Spitfire, Black Sheep, Old Speckled Hen and London Pride. To eat, we loved braised ox cheek with parsley risotto and roast marrow served with cassoulet; we’ll be back for Sunday lunches. To try everything – and believe us, you’ll want to – multiple visits to honour this will be obligatory thanks to the gargantuan portions.

When to go :
To warm bellies before hitting the nearby Parliament Hill farmers’ market. Bring the kids, too – child portions cost a mere £6. Anything from the blackboard, and try your hardest to fit in pudding.
Address :

168 Highgate Rd, NW5 1QS (7267 3641). Kentish Town tube/rail then 214, C1, C2, C11 bus/Gospel Oak rail.

A former Victorian gin palace, this gastropub has managed to hang on to the elegance of its former incarnation while at the same time propel itself into the present with a serious attitude to food and drink. New leaseholders Matt Wilkin and James McLean are the two to thank; Wilkin, previously head sommelier at the well-regarded Capital hotel in Knightsbridge, has conjured a fine wine list mixing both strong European wines as well as those from lesser-known regions. The ales, including Timothy Taylor Landlord and London Pride, are well-kept. Meanwhile, McLean has ensured that there’s no fustiness about the menu,which focuses on reinventing the gastropub meal with layers of flavour – fall-apart confit Barbary duck, for example, is neatly matched with soured onions, creamy fondant potato and simple winter greens; bar snacks include deep-fried pig’s cheeks with an eggy gribiche sauce, or sour-sweet guindilla peppers stuffed with mellow feta. The Princess has a lot going for it – quality without ponce, and comfort without compromising elegance.

When to go :
On a Saturday, for a slap-up lunch and a chance to peruse the artisanal food market in the carpark. Go surf and turf. The potted Dorset crab is one of the best; follow up with 28-day-aged ribeye with ludicrously tasty thrice-cooked chips.
Address :

217 Uxbridge Rd, W12 9DH (8749 5886). Shepherd’s Bush Market tube.
Website :

Angela Hartnett hasn’t disappointed with this new venture, a Gordon Ramsay Holdings project that consists of a very handsome dining room, hotel, bar (and – a bit of window-dressing really – a deli). Yet for all the fanfare, when it opened, it’s a great place that lives up to the promise. Wowing us with stunning and precise reworkings of Modern European cuisine, strongly accented with ingredients and techniques via Hartnett’s Italian background, she – along with head chef Colin Buchan – has created something very special indeed. The consistent quality of the offerings – smoked duck carpaccio or oven-baked halibut, say – is virtually guaranteed.

When to go :
For a spot of high-end cooking in kooky Camden. Any of the Modern European dishes that have an Italian accent.

Address :
127-129 Parkway, NW1 7PS (7388 3344). Camden Town.

There are many pubs laying claim to serving ‘seasonal, local and natural produce’, but Mike Robinson’s Fulham venture actually transcends it. A well-known game specialist, Robinson himself actually hunts for all the deer that will form the base of dishes such as roast venison T-bone with cavolo nero and mushroom ketchup. Much of the menu uses wild ingredients sourced from land in and around the woods near Robinson’s first gastropub, The Pot Kiln in Berkshire. Everything we tried was superb, and washed down nicely with the well-kept ales (including Black Sheep bitter, or the current guest ale, Good Old Boy from the West Berkshire Brewery).

When to go :
For a bone-warming, conscience-free game meal. Pigeon, venison, rabbit – all good. With warm Bramley apple doughnuts to end.
Address :

27 Walham Grove, SW6 1QP (7386 1847). Fulham Broadway.
Website :
http://www.harwoodarms.com/



Page 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10

A vegan restaurant with an extensive menu of raw food creeping its way into the Top 50? You’d better believe it. Saf confounds the usual expectations of a ‘health food’ restaurant by combining cocktail bar and cool design with beautiful dishes which go far beyond the usual salad bar stereotypes. ‘Cheese’ is made from pressed nuts; breads are made without baking. Nothing looks quite as you’d expect. And in case you’re wondering, no, the food isn’t served cold. The raw ‘pizza’ in particular is a triumph – though we’d not try feeding it to a Neapolitan.

When to go :
When fancy trying something different – very different. The beetroot ‘ravioli’ – if only to marvel at how pretty it looks.

Address :
152-154 Curtain Rd, EC2A 3AT (7613 0007). Old St tube/rail.
Website :

In a prêt-a-manger world, Yotam Ottolenghi’s flagship Islington café stands out with its compelling philosophy. Perhaps its aim to achieve ‘haute couture’ status in the culinary world can seem haughty, but their sober manifesto is counterbalanced by the reality – an exciting space showcasing dishes of explosive flavours and vibrant colours, served in a convivial environment. Expect plenty of bold ingredients with a Mediterranean slant – pomegranates, lemon, pistachio – used to great, and often surprising, effect.

When to go :
Whenever you want a special treat in Islington. Anything that catches your eye from the colourful array.
Address :

287 Upper St, N1 2TZ (7288 1454).
Website :
http://www.ottolenghi.co.uk/

Fronted by the world’s most acclaimed Thai chef, Australian David Thompson (although he spends most of his time in Bangkok), Nahm's standards are very high even in his absence. The Thai dishes are imaginative, and unusual ingredients abound; shards of banana blossom, logans, and grilled chilli jam can appear in unexpected places. Despite this, the balance of flavours – salt, sweet, bitter, chilli heat – is always correct, in the Thai way. Nahm’s expensive and the room a bit insipid, but the cooking is star attraction here.

When to go :
Lunch is great value. Vegetarians are particularly well-catered for, with an extensive menu of interesting dishes.
Address :

The Halkin, Halkin St, SW1X 7DJ (7333 1234). Hyde Park.
Website :

This year marks the tenth anniversary of the launch of Alan Yau’s Thai fast food restaurant – and yet it’s still remarkably kept up with the times. And here’s to at least another decade: Yau secured an equity investment of £21.5 million in summer 2008, which could mean the chain could grow to 20-30 sibling branches in the next five years. That’s a lot of pad Thais. But what has ensured Busaba’s longevity are not only the tried-and-trusted dishes so loved by Londoners (green chicken curry, satay, tom yum soup), but the more unusual dishes which you won’t on the usual roll-call of the Thai top 50.

: When to go
With a friend or two for for an off-peak lunch/dinner. Anything you’ve not heard of before.

22 Store St, WC1E 7DS (7299 7900). Goodge St tube.
: Website
http://www.busaba.com/

The vegetarian food here is immensely satisfying, with wonderfully fresh produce pepped up with splashes of inspiration. The menu, which usually features a daily soup, quiche/tart, casserole or moussaka, draws in flavours from around the globe. From Jamaican curry to a Roman-style vegetable stew, it’s all good, and served in generous portions. Don’t forget to try their its ‘scrunches’ – raspberry or strawberry depending on the season – cream, fresh fruit and crunchy oats.

When to go :
When you don’t mind the crush for a great value feed. The hot stews and curries are perfect for the season, packed with flavoursome veg (such as juicy aubergines and parsnips).
Address :

31 Neal St, WC2H 9PR (7836 9072). Covent Garden.
Website :

Sagar is a humble Indian vegetarian restaurant in Hammersmith which charges very modest prices for exemplary cooking. It showcases the dishes of the southern state of Karnataka, and the coastal, temple town of Udipi in particular. It cleverly recreates the layered, delicate flavours of the area from the excellent, crisp dosais which are ideal for dipping into soupy sambar (made from lentils sharpened with perky tamarind and softened aubergine). Spicing tends to be mellow rather than fiery, seasoned with curry leaves and peppy mustard seeds.

When to go :
After visiting The Lyric. The thali set meals, or the dosais are all reliably good.

Address :
157 King St, W6 9JT (8741 8563). Hammersmith.
Info :
http://www.qype.co.uk/place/93126-Sagar-Restaurant-London
Website :
http://www.sagarrestaurant.com/

There are many pubs laying claim to serving ‘seasonal, local and natural produce’, but Mike Robinson’s Fulham venture actually transcends it. A well-known game specialist, Robinson himself actually hunts for all the deer that will form the base of dishes such as roast venison T-bone with cavolo nero and mushroom ketchup. Much of the menu uses wild ingredients sourced from land in and around the woods near Robinson’s first gastropub, The Pot Kiln in Berkshire. Everything we tried was superb, and washed down nicely with the well-kept ales (including Black Sheep bitter, or the current guest ale, Good Old Boy from the West Berkshire Brewery).

When to go :
For a bone-warming, conscience-free game meal. Pigeon, venison, rabbit – all good. With warm Bramley apple doughnuts to end.

Address :
27 Walham Grove, SW6 1QP (7386 1847). Fulham Broadway.

Tom Pemberton really has come into his own since his days as chef at St John and St John Bread & Wine – if pressed, it would be hard to regard St John over Hereford Road. The strength here, like at St John, is honest, bold British cooking; signature dishes such as cockles with cider, whole braised oxtail and devilled kidneys on toast are simple and consistently brilliant. Naturally, Pemberton’s team is confident with the offal – trust them with the more challenging dishes such as deep-fried calves’ brains with black butter, a textural delight and flavoured effortlessly.

When to go :
If you ever find yourself in the company of a visitor who still laughs at the notion of ‘British cuisine’. Simple goes a long way – crabs on toast is a winner, as is calf’s liver with onion and mash.
Address :
3 Hereford Rd, W2 4AB (7727 1144). Notting Hill Gate.
Website :
http://www.herefordroad.org/

Simple is best, and there is no better champion of simplicity than Fergus Henderson’s original ‘nose to tail’ eatery. Food lovers still wax lyrical about the signature roast bone marrow with parsley salad (the marrow a wow-factor ingredient now widely copied by other establishments); and there is much else to be enjoyed from the daily-changing menu of seasonal British dishes. Ox cheek and bacon pie, for example, is meaty proper, or try the classic Eccles cake with Lancashire cheese as a dessert. It would seem that even the Michelin men, known for their love of classic French cuisine, have finally deemed it worthy of a star – only confirming what we all knew from the beginning.

When to go :
Earlier in the week, where dinner service is less hectic. The reputation rests on offal – you’d do well to order accordingly.

Address :
26 St John St, EC1M 4AY (7251 0848). Barbican.
Website :

A more apt name might be the Seafood Society, as this esteemed restaurant does more than just fish. This chirpy chippy offers even more – prawns, razor clams, oysters and squid among pickings, all either still swimming in the massive fish tank that greets you at the door, or looking shimmeringly fresh on ice behind the counter. Ethically sourced and expertly battered, the traditional fish and chip is every bit as good as you’d expect; we do have a soft spot for their more exotic treats though, such as prawn and chorizo kebabs, or anything served with the saffron aïoli.

When to go :
When you’re in serious need of some Omega-3. Pick your poison from the counter, or ask the friendly staff for the recommended catch of the day.
Address :

189 St John’s Hill, SW11 1TH (7978 7115). Clapham Junction.

Head chef Tristan Welch, formerly of Petrus (now called Marcus Wareing at the Berkeley), has swapped French-style elegance for playful Modern British cooking at this reinvented Kensington stalwart. Now part of D&D London, Launceston Place has ditched the dowdiness for pristine chic – yet, despite the upgrade (style, food and otherwise), you can eat well here without remortgaging the house. The three-course set lunch, priced at £18, is tremendous value. While the infinitely more luxurious dishes (Tamworth suckling pig, scallop in the shell) are reserved for the à la carte, tasting or set dinner menus, we never felt at all compromised. Spider crab risotto was served in gorgeous crockery, the crustacean’s empty shell (used as a lid) removed with a flourish; a venison casserole with creamy pumpkin purée and trompettes was sublime, earthy. We left pampered, but not as paupers.

When to go :
During lunch; you’ll still get all the bells and whistles (amuse bouch, pre-dessert, petits fours) for a neat price. The Cornish cream tea pudding is a witty rendition, with tea ice-cream and raspberry foam to accompany the trad scone and clotted cream.
Address :

1A Launceston Place, W8 5RL (7937 6912). Gloucester Rd or High St Kensington.
Website :

Terence Conran still has the magic touch, it would seem. His latest endeavour ‘The Boundary Project’ includes a caff (Albion), food shop and bakery, smart dining room (The Boundary) – and a hotel and rooftop bar ’n’ grill to open later in the year. It’s Team GB all the way at Albion, with well-priced, straightforward and nostalgia-tinged British food. The menu covers the expected fry-ups and nostalgia puds (apple crumble and custard), yet the cooking is surprisingly refined. The setting is as comforting as the food, with perky service to match.

When to go :
When you need some something soothing to line your stomach. Whatever calls to you – pies, puddings, a massive bacon sarnie.

Address :
2-4 Boundary St, E2 7JE (7729 1051). Liverpool.
Website :
http://www.albioncaff.co.uk/

Page 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10

Food For ThOught

The vegetarian food here is immensely satisfying, with wonderfully fresh produce pepped up with splashes of inspiration. The menu, which usually features a daily soup, quiche/tart, casserole or moussaka, draws in flavours from around the globe. From Jamaican curry to a Roman-style vegetable stew, it’s all good, and served in generous portions. Don’t forget to try their its ‘scrunches’ – raspberry or strawberry depending on the season – cream, fresh fruit and crunchy oats.

When to go :
When you don’t mind the crush for a great value feed. The hot stews and curries are perfect for the season, packed with flavoursome veg (such as juicy aubergines and parsnips).

Address :
31 Neal St, WC2H 9PR (7836 9072). Covent Garden.

Chinese food in Chinatown very rarely goes beyond classic Cantonese cooking, but Baozi Inn (from the creators of Bar Shu, currently closed for refurbishment until April 2009) breaks the mould by serving the traditional street foods of Sichuan and Beijing. From the former, you can try spicy beef noodles with sharp red chilli oil or classic dan dan mian; from the latter, zhajiang mian (minced pork noodles) or the ubiquitous baozi (steamed buns) that are so popular in northern China.

When to go :
For lunch on the cheap. Slippery, al dente ‘dragon’ wontons in a flavoursome broth of your choice – spicy ‘red oil’, or clear and savoury.

Address :

25 Newport Court, WC2H 7JS (7287 6877). Leicester Square.
Info :
http://www.doshermanos.co.uk/2008/08/baozi-inn.html

Terence Conran still has the magic touch, it would seem. His latest endeavour ‘The Boundary Project’ includes a caff (Albion), food shop and bakery, smart dining room (The Boundary) – and a hotel and rooftop bar ’n’ grill to open later in the year. It’s Team GB all the way at Albion, with well-priced, straightforward and nostalgia-tinged British food. The menu covers the expected fry-ups and nostalgia puds (apple crumble and custard), yet the cooking is suprisingly refined. The setting is as comforting as the food, with perky service to match.

When to go :
when you need some something soothing to line your stomach. Whatever calls to you – pies, puddings, a massive bacon sarnie.

Address :
2-4 Boundary St, E2 7JE (7729 1051). Liverpool St tube/rail or bus 8, 26, 48.
Website :
http://www.albioncaff.com/

Mangal was the first Turkish ocakbasi barbecue in London, and its success sparked a wave of imitators in Dalston and across London. It is still as unpretentious and unreconstructed as it ever was, and owes its success not to the occasionally gruff service, the terrible noise from the grill’s extraction chimney or the cramped interior, but to to the quality of its barbecued meats, which are sublime.

When to go :
Cold evenings
Address :

10 Arcola St, E8 2DJ (7275 8981). Dalston Kingsland rail. Unlicensed.
Website :

The freshness and vibrancy of Vietnamese cooking is a revelation, and a kitchen as authentic as Song Que’s is a real asset in London’s culinary landscape. Decor-wise, it’s nothing to harp on about – paper tablecloths and cheap furniture hulked together in a large, thankfully high-ceilinged room – leaving room for us to wax lyrical about the even higher standards of cooking. Song Que, while excelling in plenty of Vietnamese staples – fresh summer rolls bursting with vermicelli and herbs, garlicky stir-fried morning glory – they’re best known for the clear, flavoursome broth in their signature pho, a humble rice noodle soup. A favourite among connoisseurs is the version with rare sliced steak and a rich meaty broth; the balanced flavours come together with fresh herbs (sawtooth, sweet basil), lemon juice and chillies.

When to go :
If you want something satisfying on a budget, or are looking for something to nurse that hangover on a cold night. The pho is obligatory; supplement it with dish of chargrilled beef wrapped in betel leaves (bo la lot).
Address :

134 Kingsland Rd, E2 8DY (7613 3222). Old St tube/rail.

The original Cah Chi in Raynes Park has long been one of our favourite Korean restaurants; this new branch has a different vibe, but it has the advantage of being slightly closer to central London. You won’t find watered-down Korean food – all the dishes we’ve tried here have been confidently rendered with no compromise on flavour. Crisp pa jeon (a sort of pancake) filled with fresh seafood and spring onions, or strips of raw beef sizzling in a stone bowl (dolsot) with rice, pickles and vegetables, being just two of many great examples.
When to go :
For Korean food without the clichéd barbecue-side theatrics. Fill up on the panchan (small side dishes) and move swiftly onto the grilled marinated meats.
Address :

394 Garratt Lane, SW18 4HP (8946 8811). Earlsfield rail.
Website :

If we had to make a comparison, Rosa’s would be Busaba Eathai’s homelier, cuter cousin – the pink and red decor with childlike stools for perching, communal tables and gentle lighting offers up the right mix of cosiness and charm. The food, while more home-style than Busaba’s, reaches similar heights with a hearty mix of familiar Thai dishes (pad Thai, stir-fries, curries), done consistently well with fresh ingredients. There’s supreme care given to cooking meats perfectly, seen in a faultless starter of satays and a succulent dish of lamb cutlets in aromatic yellow curry. The service is friendly but unintrusive.

The Pakistani family behind Nauroz has been moving around the London suburbs for nearly two decades. They set up a stunning karahi restaurant, make it hugely successful, then sell it and move on. You can currently catch them near Harrow, where the cooking is robust and focuses on earthy fried-onion masalas, tandoori kebabs, and top-notch breads. Robustly spiced deighi gosht (on-the-bone lamb chunks simmered in a silken masala of browned onions with cardamom) is an outstanding rendition of this homely dish. This place is just a caff really, so it’s not fancy, but it is usefully BYO.

When to go :
When fate takes you near Harrow. Meat or veg, and order a lassi to quench the heat.

Address :
219 Field End Rd, Eastcote, Middx, HA5 1QZ (8868 0900). Eastcote.

This fantastic eatery deserves all the praise it gets – not only does the owner Emma Miles, boast commendable culinary provenance (Miles used to work for Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall’s River Cottage restaurant), they do their darndest to make the Kitchen as sustainable as possible. Nearly all produce is sourced from within the UK, which goes towards the daily-changing, seasonal creations that have us coming back for more.

When to go :
If your carbon footprint is playing on your mind. The vegetarian dishes are a delight – especially the tortillas.
Address :

27-31 Clerkenwell Close, EC1R 0AT (7101 9959). Angel tube or Farringdon
Website :
http://www.theclerkenwellkitchen.com/

Page 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10

After stints at some of London’s most famous Italian restaurants between them – Antonio Carluccio’s Neal Street, Gennaro Contaldo’s Passione and Jamie Oliver’s Fifteen – Mario Magli and Giorgio Pili’s modest neighbourhood eatery is up there with the rest of them. Even the bread is own-made, and you won’t find lighter gnocci elsewhere; here, it’s served with excellent Italian sausage in a fennel seed and tomato sauce. Other dishes, such as red snapper ragu with pappardelle, are a refreshing change from the usual carbonaras, bolognese and marinaras.

When to go :
incredibly good Italian that veers from the obvious. Start with the plump Puglia green olives and any of the pastas.

Address :
782 Holloway Rd, N19 3JH (7272 3406). Archway tube or Upper Holloway rail.
Website :
http://www.500restaurant.co.uk/

Inside, it’s all restrained glamour and minimalist chic, but Calabrian chef Francesco Mazzei commands a kitchen capable of producing immensely satisfying pan-Italian dishes. That classic Venetian speciality, fritto misto (fried seafood) is done faultlessly, while unique ingredients are used to great effect. Look for nduja, a creamy-textured Calabrian spicy salami, or bottarga from Sardinia (dried grey mullet roe).
When to go :
When you hanker for Italian food – but not as you know it. Do save room for the imaginative desserts, which are beautifully presented.

Address :
1 Snowden St, EC2A 2DQ (7422 7000). Liverpool St tube/rail.
Website :
http://www.lanima.co.uk/

A top-of-the-range Neapolitan wood burning brick oven; sourdough left to rise for a minimum of 20 hours; organic flour, vegetables, meats (from Brindisa), cheese and tipples. We could think of many places that would (and do) charge a premium for such solid efforts, but no – the most expensive pizza at Franco Manca is a jaw-dropping £5.60, the cheapest but by no stretch the least delicious (classic tomato, garlic and oregano) is £3.90. Wines by the glass, unbelievably, go for less than two quid (and contrary to logic, are pretty drinkable). Its location in ragtag Brixton Market only adds to its haphazard charm – a particular brand of speedy service with a smile.

: When to go
Weekdays, off-peak; unless you fancy joining queues of epic proportions. We can’t fault any of the six pizzas on offer, but you can always try your luck and ask for something bespoke.
: Address

4 Market Row, SW9 8LD (7738 3021). Brixton.
: Website

There’s no doubt about it: Bocca di Lupo is the food-lovers’ restaurant of the moment. Chef Jacob Kenedy was previously chef at Moro, and has created a very similar approach of serving interesting, varied, daily-changing small dishes to share. The feel is similar too: casual and a bit too loud perhaps, but it certainly has a buzz to it. The big difference when compared to Moro is the origin of the cuisine: Kenedy has plucked classic plus more innovative ingredient combinations from every region of Italy, and presents them simply; ingredient quality is to the fore. Perhaps the most surprising thing is just how Italian the food tastes; this is not like the ersatz tastes you might expect. A simple salad of Castelfranco raddichio (a cream-coloured, slightly tart winter leaf) is simply served with hazelnuts and the maroon-coloured, bitter treviso shoots, reflecting the Italian fondness for bitter flavours. The Jewish-Roman technique of deep-frying young artichokes renders the leaves crisp, the centres soft; these are paired with the melting richness of veal sweetbreads. Our only caveat – this in the early days, mind – is that the tables are packed in far too tightly, and the table service can at times be slow or even careless. Despite this, go if you want really good Italian food at a fair price.

When to go :
When in Soho, with a lively group of friends. Small plates of sharing dishes, tapas-style; or the one-plate lunch specials (costing around a tenner) at the bar.
Address :
12 Archer St, W1D 7BB (7734 2223). Piccadilly Circus.
Website :
http://www.boccadilupo.com/



Page 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10

Chinese food in Chinatown very rarely goes beyond classic Cantonese cooking, but Baozi Inn (from the creators of Bar Shu, currently closed for refurbishment until April 2009) breaks the mould by serving the traditional street foods of Sichuan and Beijing. From the former, you can try spicy beef noodles with sharp red chilli oil or classic dan dan mian; from the latter, zhajiang mian (minced pork noodles) or the ubiquitous baozi (steamed buns) that are so popular in northern China.

When to go :
For lunch on the cheap. Slippery, al dente ‘dragon’ wontons in a flavoursome broth of your choice – spicy ‘red oil’, or clear and savoury.

Address :
25 Newport Court, WC2H 7JS (7287 6877). Leicester Square.
Info :
http://www.squaremeal.co.uk/restaurants/london/view/101229/Baozi_Inn

To describe Sushi-Hiro as minimal would be an understatement. Its facade, which emulates a recently bankrupted restaurant with frosted out windows and no sign of life within, tends to scare away unknown passers-by. Coupled with bizarre opening hours and a blatant disregard for self-promotion, one might wonder about the sanity of the loyal crowds of diners Sushi-Hiro pulls. The reason is simple – this is where you find some of the best sushi in London. With all efforts concentrated on perfecting the sushi on offer, diners have learned not to expect frills such as noodles or teriyaki; the only hot item on the menu is a simple miso soup.

When to go :
When a depressing refrigerated box of supermarket sushi just won’t do. Anything on the menu – which means: sushi.
Address :
1 Station Parade, Uxbridge Rd, W5 3LD (8896 3175) Ealing Common tube.
Website :
http://www.sushihiro.com.hk/

A case-study in Chinese chic done well and without the cringe factor. Visiting this louche restaurant is to descend (literally; it’s in a basement) into a world of decadence, of sultry 1930s Shanghai style with James Bond intrigue. And while Hakkasan is no longer under the sole stewardship of Alan Yau (he sold it off to an Abu Dhabi-based company in 2008), there has, so far, been no discernible dip in quality – food, drink or otherwise. The bar serves up luscious Oriental-inspired cocktails (a dangerous place to linger) and the kitchen excels in the kind of creative Cantonese cooking even purists would be powerless to resist – take sweet-and-sour Berkshire pork, with its tang taken from pomegranate instead of the usual pineapple. The à la carte is wonderful to peruse, but the dim sum menu (great value, but lunch only) offers up equally sumptuous fare – venison puffs and scallop shumai with tobiko (flying fish roe) are sublime.
When to go :

At lunch, ask for the dim sum menu and order from that. To finish off, ask for the century egg congee (savoury rice porridge) served with spring onions and thinly sliced fried dough sticks.: Address :
8 Hanway Place, W1T 1HD (7907 1888). Tottenham Court Rd tube.
Website :

The original Cah Chi in Raynes Park has long been one of our favourite Korean restaurants; this new branch has a different vibe, but it has the advantage of being slightly closer to central London. You won’t find watered-down Korean food – all the dishes we’ve tried here have been confidently rendered with no compromise on flavour. Crisp pa jeon (a sort of pancake) filled with fresh seafood and spring onions, or strips of raw beef sizzling in a stone bowl (dolsot) with rice, pickles and vegetables, being just two of many great examples.

When to go :
For Korean food without the clichéd barbecue-side theatrics. Fill up on the panchan (small side dishes) and move swiftly onto the grilled marinated meats.
Address :
394 Garratt Lane, SW18 4HP (8946 8811). Earlsfield rail.
Website:
http://www.cahchi.com/

Page 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10

The quality of London's restaurants has become increasingly high profile over the last few years and London is now recognized as one of the great restaurant destinations of the world, with over 50 million visitors dining in their restaurants and dining rooms each year.

The restaurant scene in United Kingdom has seen enormous growth over the last few years and has become diverse and exciting with restaurants appealing to all tastes and styles.

Many restaurants growth in London, Here I try to give definition for each restaurants in different categories. And here it is: from capital curries to great gastropubs, as well as suggestions for where to eat on the cheap, if you want to impress, or are just looking for great service and value

AmAya

Much of the menu at this chic bar and grill is grilled on the tawa (a thick iron plate), sigri (coal grill) or in the more familiar tandoor (hot clay oven) right in front of diners, which adds a great sense of theatre to the sparkling surrounds. The biryanis are first rate; and if you’ve ever wanted to try proper ‘Awadhi’ dishes, from the height of the Moghul empire in Lucknow, this is the place to try them. Amaya’s relatively expensive, but it’s outstanding value nonetheless.

When to go :

When you crave Indian food, but are tired of ‘curry’.

Address :
15 Motcomb St, Halkin Arcade, SW1X 8JT (7823 1166)
Website :
http://www.realindianfood.com/

MOTI MahAL

This top-end Indian restaurant hasn’t got the ‘wow’ factor that stunningly designed Indian restaurants such as London's Amaya, Red Fort, Tamarind or Benares have; instead, the owners appear to be putting their faith in the cooking to attract custom. The style of cooking is distinctly new-wave Indian, but the accent with all these dishes is still as much on careful spicing and masalas (spice mixtures) as looks. It’s not cheap for dinner, but the set lunch menu is a steal at £13.50 for three courses.

When to go :
To explore Indian food beyond the usual Ruby Murrays

Address :
45 Great Queen St, WC2B 5AA (7240 9329)
Website :
http://www.motimahal-uk.com/

Sagar is a humble Indian vegetarian restaurant in Hammersmith which charges very modest prices for exemplary cooking. It showcases the dishes of the southern state of Karnataka, and the coastal, temple town of Udipi in particular. It cleverly recreates the layered, delicate flavours of the area from the excellent, crisp dosais which are ideal for dipping into soupy sambar (made from lentils sharpened with perky tamarind and softened aubergine). Spicing tends to be mellow rather than fiery, seasoned with curry leaves and peppy mustard seeds.

When to go :
After visiting The Lyric.

Address :
157 King St, W6 9JT (8741 8563). Hammersmith.
Website :
http://www.restrobar.com/uk/london/Nauroz.html

The Pakistani family behind Nauroz has been moving around the London suburbs for nearly two decades. They set up a stunning karahi restaurant, make it hugely successful, then sell it and move on. You can currently catch them near Harrow, where the cooking is robust and focuses on earthy fried-onion masalas, tandoori kebabs, and top-notch breads. Robustly spiced deighi gosht (on-the-bone lamb chunks simmered in a silken masala of browned onions with cardamom) is an outstanding rendition of this homely dish. This place is just a caff really, so it’s not fancy, but it is usefully BYO.

When to go :
When fate takes you near Harrow.

Address :
219 Field End Rd, Eastcote, Middx, HA5 1QZ (8868 0900). Eastcote tube.
Info :
http://www.restrobar.com/uk/london/Nauroz.html

Page 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10